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Review: Ruggles Black for Houston Restaurant Weeks

Aug 27, 2015 | Restaurant review

Review: Ruggles Black, Houston, TX

Ruggles Black
3963 Kirby Drive
Houston, Texas 77098
832.530.4493

I’m upset with myself that this place has been open for almost a year I’ve been missing out on chef Bruce Molzan’s latest Paleo venture.  “The King of Paleo” has done it again, catering to Paleo-lifestylers, fusion-loving foodies, and those who love eating local.  A substantial portion of the menu is Paleo with American, Indian and Asian flavors throughout. The decor mimics this blend of styles, with combinations of old and new. Metal chairs, reclaimed wood, a handful of marble-top tables, trendy light fixtures, and gold and red accents.

Not only do they have their normal menu of appetizers, salads, flatbreads, and entrees, they also hand you a weekly specials menu with seasonal delights they’ve picked up from local markets. Of course, I went for the Houston Restaurant Weeks menu and I believe my choices were a good selection of what Ruggles Black has to offer. The three course meal is $35/person and it’s three courses of salad, a taco, and entree. They are also offering a couple of special wines where a portion is donated to another campaign: “Taste of the NFL Kick Hunger Challenge.” Well you don’t have to twist my arm to get me to support a good cause!

Review: Ruggles Black, Houston, TX

While the first course on the menu was supposed to be my taco, I was served this monstrous Crunchy Kale and Arugula salad first instead. Kale, arugula, quinoa, candied pecans, cashews, pickled jalapenos, cucumbers, broccoli, tomatoes and ginger honey mustard dressing topped with micro greens and fried sweet potato crisps. One bite and all I could think about was the explosion of flavors in my mouth. I made myself take breaks between a couple of bites to take breaths (and have a few sips of wine). I wished I had ordered the white instead of the red since the salad was pretty spicy, and a cold, crisp white would have paired well.  The salad was so beautiful (and delicious) I honestly forgot about my taco. And then they brought this masterpiece.

Review: Ruggles Black, Houston, TX

Review: Ruggles Black, Houston, TX

The Paleo Short Rib Taco. At my server’s suggestion, I cut it in half and then picked it up with my hands, being careful that the drips were over my plate. On the menu it’s listed with mango, green onion, and Serrano mayonnaise. But I believe I was served with the toppings of the snapper taco by mistake (mixed greens, pico de gallo, cilantro). Ruggles Black, this happy little accident might be your next menu item here because this combination with the Asian flair (see plate) totally amplified the dish to yet another mouth explosion. The short rib was a tad dry, but the Serrano mayonnaise made up for it. The almond flour tortilla isn’t special on it’s own, but when it’s wrapping up so much flavor, you don’t even notice.

Review: Ruggles Black, Houston, TX

The Paleo Tandoori Zataar Chicken was my least favorite dish, mostly because of the tough cut of chicken I was served. If you order this entree from the regular menu, it is served as half of a chicken which may lend to an overall better dish. The vegetables were quite bland, but the cauliflower mash was great soaking up the Indian spices.

The HWR menu didn’t come with dessert, but come on, how could I not?! Look at all of those options! There are limited Paleo options, but fine ones. Paleo-ish goat cheese cheesecake, berry crumble, avocado chocolate mousse, key lime pie in a jar, and the Paleo almond joy, which was my obvious choice. #chocolatefiend

Review: Ruggles Black, Houston, TX

A chocolate cake with a layer of soft shredded coconut topped with a chocolate ganache, slivered almonds, and coconut milk whipped cream. The cake was a little dry, as cakes get when you store them in the fridge. But the coconut milk ice cream was to die for. I have made coconut milk ice cream at home and am never able to get a coconut flavor like this. How did they do it? Next time I will definitely try the goat-cheese cheesecake, as my server promised the flavor was well balanced and not too goaty (yes, that’s a word). Before next time, I’ll cheat and make their avocado mousse at home with the ACTUAL recipe I found here!

Review: Ruggles Black, Houston, TX

As I’ve said in my other restaurant reviews for HRW, when the weather is cooler I WILL be back to enjoy their large patio, complete with a fire pit, string cafe lights, tiki torches, cushioned seating, and heaters for when it gets a little chilly. After that, I might host my birthday dinner in the quiet 8-top booth in the back, or enjoy a gluten-free flatbread at their bar top. See you soon, RB!

Monday – Thursday
11:00 – 10:00
Friday & Saturday
11:00 – 11:00
Sunday – Closed

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